Banana Growing Guide for Mediterranean Climates

History, Significance, and Nutritional Benefits of the Banana

The banana has a long and fascinating history, originating in Southeast Asia and spreading to various parts of the world through trade and exploration. Today, they are one of the most important food crops globally, with hundreds of varieties available. Bananas have been cultivated for thousands of years, and their domestication has led to the development of varieties that are sweeter, larger, more resilient and more adapted to different climates and soils.

The significance of the banana extends beyond its historical roots. They are a staple food in many countries and play a crucial role in food security and economies worldwide. Bananas are celebrated for their ease of cultivation and high productivity, making them a reliable food source.

Nutritionally, bananas are rich in essential vitamins and minerals. They are a good source of dietary fiber, vitamin C, and potassium. Potassium, in particular, is vital for maintaining healthy blood pressure and heart function. Bananas also contain antioxidants and other nutrients that support overall health, and in particular the digestive system and blood sugar regulation.

You can grow your own bananas, too! 🍌🍌

To ensure successful banana cultivation in the Mediterranean climates like Portugal, Spain or Italy, we summarized what we understand as good efficient practices, based both on our practical experience at the Orchard of Flavours and on advice by the best banana growing experts.

We’ll be covering quite a few different aspects about growing healthy and productive banana plants in our Southern European climate. Feel free to find the content you’re looking for in the index below:

JUMP TO —> Planting Location — Planting Time — Soil Type — Planting Distance — Hole Preparation — Regular Fertilizing — Watering — Maintenance — Support Structures — Growth Cycle — Protection and Maturation — Harvesting / Ripening — Post-harvest — Propagation — Tools — Pests & Diseases — Interesting Varieties

Planting Location

Protection: Banana plants do best in protected areas because they are susceptible to wind damage. The banana circle is a very interesting technique, originated in Africa, that creates ideal protection and fertility. Learn more about it in our most read article. We’ve also found that having a stone wall to the north of the planting site helps in a big way creating the right microclimate, providing wind and frost protection, as well as added warmth during the colder months.

Sunlight: Full sun is also essential for optimum plant development and yield. Make sure that your plants get the first rays of sun in the morning especially if in your area winters are colder.

Planting Time

Warm temperature: In Mediterranean climates, bananas will do much better if planted when it is a minimum of 20°C at night, usually sometime between May and September. They can even be planted during peak summer if adequate irrigation is available.

Avoid winter: Avoid planting during the rainy winter. Often, no new roots will develop and the rhizome will rot.

Soil Type

pH level: Avoid planting in very alkaline soil (often the whitish clay soil). This will never work !! Bananas thrive in slightly acidic, neutral and very slightly alkaline soil (pH 5.5 to 7.5).

Drainage: The soil should be well-drained but have good water retention capacity. It must not be compacted.

Planting Distance

Spacing: When planting banana trees in rows or circles, keep them at 2-meter intervals.

Hole Preparation

Size: Dig holes of about 1 cubic meter in size (1m x 1m x 1m).

Compost and manure: Banana plants are particularly hungry. When planting, add at least 150 liters of plant compost, 70 liters of horse manure compost, and 75 liters of acidic substrate per hole (such as composted pine bark or peat moss).

Regular Fertilizing

Nutritious organic matter: If you opt for organic fertilizing, well composted horse manure and plant compost can be added at least every six months (springtime and fall). Here in the Botanical Garden we add around 35 liters of composted horse manure and 70 liters of plant compost twice a year.

Slow-release fertilizer: Slow-release mineral fertilizer (9 to 12 months) works also very well. Among the best slow-release fertilizers in the market is ICL Osmocote products. A balanced NPK with trace elements (10-10-10 or 18-18-18) works well.

Watering

Water requirements: Bananas require a large quantity of water but do not tolerate waterlogging for long periods. They need 1800 to 2500mm (liters) of water per square meter annually. The soil should remain moist at all times.

Type of irrigation: A minimum of 2 small sprinklers should be placed around each banana plant. Alternatively, in-line drippers can also be used, by placing a very big spiral around the stems.

Maintenance

Thinning: Choose 2 or 3 stems (babies or “pups”) per plant to keep, and remove the others to prevent overcrowding. Use a long, sharp spade to remove these suckers. You should dig quite deeply, usually minimum 30cm. Thereafter, add some soil to fill the hole. (more on dividing suckers below, under ‘Propagation’)

Remove the dead or drying leaves: Use a Stanley box cutter or a sickle. Do not do it during the winter ! Drying leaves can help insulate the banana plant, providing a layer of protection against cold temperatures and frost.

Cut the big male flower: Remove the male flower (called the “heart”) once all bananas are well-formed to direct energy to the fruit. Note: the sap of the flower stains fabric permanently. No detergent can remove that stain. The white flesh inside the male flower is edible and you can find many recipes on the internet.

Support Structures

Protect the bunch: Use bamboo sticks to prevent the banana bunch from touching the stem.

Support the main stem: It’s also advisable to support fruit-bearing stems by using one or two wooden poles (see picture). If you don’t support the stem, very often it will break before the bananas are ready to be harvested.

Growth Cycle

Variety specifics:
º Cavendish varieties: 12 to 14 months to harvest.
º Red Dacca and Blue Java: Up to 2 years.
Very often, the flower will show up approximately after the 23rd leaf.

Maturation: Fruits mature 60-90 days after flowering.

Protection and Maturation

Covering: Although not at all indispensable, you can cover banana bunches with reusable perforated blue plastic (“banana grow bags”) to protect them and enhance ripening. These can be found online.

Harvesting / Ripening

The right timing: Wait until bananas are well-shaped and a few are turning yellow. Bananas are climacteric fruit that can ripen after being detached from the plant.

Post-Harvest

Stem cutting: After harvesting the banana bunch, cut the stem at about 1 meter above the ground to promote new growth. The remains of this stem will help in feeding the next generation with water and nutrients.

Propagation

Banana plants are propagated by division.

Sword suckers: These have narrow upright leaves (looking like “swords”) and a large rhizome, making them strong and capable of developing into robust banana plants. Sword suckers are preferred for propagation because they tend to produce healthier and more productive plants. They often grow closer to the mother plant.

Water suckers: These have broad leaves and a smaller rhizome. Water suckers are generally weaker and less vigorous than sword suckers. It is recommended to remove water suckers from the banana corm to ensure better growth of the main plant. They often grow farther away from the mother plant.

Tools

Dividing suckers: You need a sharp long spade to divide the suckers.

Cleaning and cutting: To clean the leaves, cut the male flower, or the stem, you can use a big Stanley cutter or a very sharp long kitchen knife. Professionals would use a special sickle. (see picture above, under ‘Maintenance’)

Pests & diseases

Banana plants are susceptible to a wide range of diseases, especially in large monocultures. However, the bananas available from nurseries are typically disease-free, ensuring a healthy start for your plants. In Mediterranean countries, bananas have so far been relatively free from severe pest and disease attacks.

Interesting varieties of Bananas for growing in Mediterranean climates

Finally, find underneath a more detailed database of all the different banana trees growing at the Orchard.

Click on any plant to check information such as rusticity zone, edible parts, water requirements, ideal soil, etc.

..and for those of you who cannot read the embedded table:

• Musa 'Helen's hybrid' (Helen’s banana)

• Musa × paradisiaca 'Blue Java' (Blue Java banana)

• Musa × paradisiaca 'Chini Champa' (Chini Champa)

• Musa × paradisiaca 'Dajiao' (Saba banana)

• Musa × paradisiaca 'Dwarf Orinoco' (Dwarf Orinoco banana)

• Musa × paradisiaca 'Manzano' (Apple banana)

• Musa × paradisiaca 'Pisang Awak' (Awak banana)

• Musa acuminata 'Dwarf Cavendish' (Banana da Madeira)

• Musa acuminata 'Red Dacca' (Red banana)

• Musa balbisiana 'Lep Chang Kut' (Elephant’s Toe banana)

• Musa thomsonii (Thompson banana)

Come find all these different banana plants at the Orchard of Flavours, in Tavira, Algarve!

This article was compiled by Miguel COTTON. If you have any questions or suggestions, do not hesitate to contact us. miguel@orchardofflavours.com